Fans/Drive Coolers
The Case
Below, you can see the relatively empty computer case. To access the inside of the case, all that is needed is a #2 Philips screwdriver. Remove the four screws on the rear of both side panels. The panels slide back about 1/2" and are then free. This case included the power supply. The motherboard mounts to the large flat area in the case.
The Rear Panel
In the next image, you can see the rear of the case and the panel that is supposed to surround/dress-out the motherboard connectors. This one will not fit our board. To change it to the one that was supplied with our motherboard, you simply remove the two screws to the left of the panel.
The new panel is not mounted with screws. It snaps into the space from the inside of the case. Care has to be taken to get it fully snapped-in on all sides.
There are various holes in the case that accept brass standoffs. They are marked as to whether they fit AT/ATX or P4 boards. Since the mounting holes vary from one board to another, you need to set the board in place and note which holes in the case correspond to the holes in your MB. The mounting holes on your MB will have a round silver area around the hole. Do not use any other holes to screw the board down. After you determine which holes you need to use, mark each one. Screw a brass insert into each of the marked holes. Tighten each one with a 5mm socket.
Finding the Correct Mounting Holes
Hardware
Below, you can see the hardware that was included with the case.
This shows two pieces of hardware installed into the case. The one on the left is a brass standoff. It will be used to secure the motherboard to the case. The piece of hardware on the right is 'part' of a nylon standoff. It's used to provide additional support to the board when you're pushing a card into a slot.
This is a close-up view of the full standoff and the modified standoff. As you can see, I simply cut off the top with a pair of flush-cutting pliers. I screw these in unused holes that are under the motherboard but where there is no corresponding hole in the motherboard. When they are in areas under memory or expansion slots, they help prevent the board from being bent too far. Fortunately, they are not really needed in this case since there are cutouts behind the memory and expansion slots that will allow us to support the board from behind when inserting cards.
The Motherboard
Below, you can see that the motherboard is installed. When selecting the screws to mount the motherboard, you need to notice two things. The first is the size of the screw head vs the area around the mounting holes. Sometimes, you'll have very little clearance between the screw hole and the traces on the board. make sure that the screws you use don't go outside of the shiny area around the hole. You also need to notice the threads in the brass standoffs. I've seen both the course 6-32 threads (as those used in hard drives and the case but I've also seen standoffs that have the fine threads like those used in the floppy and optical drives. If you force the wrong screw into the standoff, you may have trouble getting it tight and possibly even more trouble when you try to remove it.
The Heatsink and Fan
There was a picture of the following heatsink earlier in the tutorial. Here, you can see that the thermal pad has been removed and the heatsink has been cleaned. Now it's ready to be installed onto the CPU.
In the following image, you can see that I've applied a layer of heatsink compound to the CPU. You don't want a thick layer. You simply want enough to cover the core. When the heatsink is mounted, virtually all of the compound will be squished out. The small remaining amount will simply serve to fill microscopic gaps that would otherwise be filled with nothing but air. As you can see, I made a mess. If you do the same, you can use a cotton swab to clean it up. Try not to get the compound on you. It's not harmful but it seems to get everywhere.
At the time, the following compound is widely regarded as the best. It's super fine particle size (it's actually a fine powder in a synthetic grease) is one reason it works so well.
As you know, the CPU fan has to be powered. Most motherboards have dedicated connectors for the CPU fan. This board is no different. You can see that the connector is clearly labeled.
End of Part One -- Go to Part Two in the Directory >>