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Shipping Instructions and Terms
  1. Overview
    2.
  2. Before Shipping
    3.
  3. Payment
    4.
  4. Shipping Charges
    5.
  5. My Shipping Address
    6.
  6. Notification that the amp has been shipped to me
    7.
  7. Packing Suggestions
    8.
  8. Warranty
    9.
  9. Other Suggestions
    10.
  10. Return Address
    11.

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  1. Overview:
    The following list may seen extensive but it's here to make the repair process as efficient as possible. I only accept repairs from the continental US.

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  2. Before Shipping:
    Before shipping any amp to me, email me to see if I will work on the make/model amp you have. If there is obvious damage, send a photo or two of the area so that I can determine if the amp is repairable. In some instances, the board is burned too badly and there's no practical way to repair it.

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  3. Payment:
    Payment will be through PayPal. The total repair cost will be the repair charge for all amps you send to me plus return shipping. The shipping will be via UPS and will be whatever the online calculator quotes from my address (70737) to yours. When you ship it to me, insure the amps for the replacement cost. The payment for the repair and return shipment must be made before prior to the return of the amplifier(s). Payment for the repair must be within 30 days of the date of completion. I'll email you to let you know it's been repaired. If you don't generally check your email daily, you should do so until you receive the amplifier.

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  4. Shipping Charges:
    To know what the return shipping charges will be, go to the UPS site and use the shipping calculator. Use the 'Detailed Time and Cost' calculator, not the simple calculator. It will look similar to the following images. You will have to insert the weight, outside dimensions, insurance value, etc. When I return it, this will be what I charge. For small amps travelling just a few hundred miles, expect ~$20. If you have a large, heavy amp that has to be shipped to either coast, expect ~$50. If you use a box that's significantly larger than the amp, it could cost as much as $30 over what it would cost if you use the correct box. If you don't have a scale, you can use a bathroom scale. Weigh yourself with and without the boxed-up amplifier. The difference is the weight of the box.

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  5. My Shipping Address:
    This is my address. To prevent mistakes, print it and use it as the label. If you're printing on an inkjet printer, completely cover the printed label with clear packing tape (~1/4" overlap between strips). If the label gets wet, the inkjet ink will run and not be legible. This could cause the loss of the amplifier. Don't expect to get a new amp (or even a replacement) if it's lost. Insurance claims can be very difficult to win.

    Perry Babin
    PMB 47
    1414 N. Burnside Ave. - Suite C
    Gonzales, LA
    70737

    The address above is a mail service. It's used because any carrier can deliver to it and it's secure (your amp won't be left outside if I'm not here to receive it).

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  6. Notification that the Amp has been Shipped to Me:
    Email me when you ship the package (include the tracking number). Track the package and email me when you see that it's been delivered. I use a mail service (secure and someone is always there to sign for it). They generally let me know when I get a package but your email will ensure that I pick up the amp as soon as possible.

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  7. Packing Suggestions:
    When you ship the amps, don't use peanuts. If you ship the amps, don't use peanuts (not a typo - this is VERY important). Loose peanuts will allow the amplifier to settle to the bottom of the container/box and the amp will have very little protection from impact. This can result in significant cosmetic damage to the heatsink and can cause irreparable damage to the power/speaker/RCA connectors. This can be a serious problem if the connectors are no longer available.

    If you absolutely MUST use peanuts, fill several plastic bags (gallon ziplock, medium kitchen size trash can bags) and place the bags in the box. The bags prevent shifting of the peanuts and keep the amp centered in the box. Punch small holes in the bag so that you can compress the bags fully. If you don't, the air will leak out in transit and the amp will be able to move against the side of the box which will allow it to be easily damaged.

    Use bubble-wrap around the amp and place at least one layer of corrugated cardboard between the individual amplifiers (if you're sending multiple amps). For multiple amps, orient the amps so that the bottoms of the amps are to the outside of the box. If something punctures the box, it's better to have the bottom cover damaged than the top of the amp.

    Crumpled newspaper is a cheap packing material but it's time consuming to have to wad up enough paper to fill the voids in the box. Try to find (or cut down) a box that allows ~2-3" of packing material all around the amp. It saves on shipping and the amount of fill needed to pack the amp tightly (compared to a larger box).

    Provide extra protection for the RCA jacks and power/speaker connectors. Do not use a box that doesn't have at least 2 inches of clearance on EACH end of the amp.

    Tighten all screws in the terminal blocks before shipping. The vibration encountered during shipping can make the screws work loose out of the terminal blocks. This can cause them to become lost. If they're trapped between the heatsink and the packing material, they can badly scratch the amp. Some screws are essentially a custom size and are not available. If they're lost, it may be virtually impossible to replace them.

    For amps that are especially valuable, I'd suggest that you enclose it in XPS (Extruded PolyStyrene) foam board. This is the pink or blue foam insulation used as a thermal barrier in homes. It's available at most Home Depot type stores. Don't buy the styrofoam insulation that looks like compressed beads (beadboard, EPS foam board). It makes a mess. The extruded foam is much better. Buy the insulation that has only a clear plastic surface protector (no foil). For the ends of the amp, cut out the places for the jacks, switches, terminal... to prevent any pressure from being applied upon impact. Tape the foam around the amp (covering the entire amp with the foam) and pack the amp as you would normally (bubble wrap, etc).

    When you finish packing the box, it should be so full that it's difficult to close. Tape it securely with about twice as much tape as you think it needs.

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  8. Warranty:
    The warranty is typically 30 days beginning when the shipper says the amp has been delivered. The warranty does not cover damage due to improper installation. The amplifier likely failed due to improper speaker load impedance, shorted wires or defective speakers. All of these MUST be checked by a qualified installer if you don't fully understand how to use a multimeter to check for these faults. If the amp fails because it's been reinstalled into a system that has wiring or speaker faults, you'll be responsible for all shipping charges. All amplifiers are tested for a minimum of one hour before they're returned.

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  9. Other Suggestions:
    When you remove the amp for repair, pull the fuse feeding the amp and leave the fuse out until the amp is fully reinstalled. When reinstalling, disconnect main power or pull the fuse feeding the amp you're reinstalling. Make ALL connections BEFORE applying power.

    When you remove the RCA cables from the amp, tape them up IMMEDIATELY. If the shield of the RCA cable brushes against a 12v power source, it can INSTANTLY blow the shield open in the head unit.

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  10. Return Address:
    Even if you have your return address on the box, you should include a copy of it inside the box (printed on a sheet of paper). Sometimes labels are difficult to read. If you have a UPS or FedEx account and want to include a printed, pre-paid return label, feel ree to do so.

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Copyright:
Perry Babin 2000 - 2009
All rights reserved